About Your Cherokee / Southeastern Moccasin Pattern

The soft sole, one-piece centre-seam moccasin was the most common type of the South Eastern tribes, predominantly the Cherokee, Choctaw, Chickasaw, Seminole, and Creek. Their footwear is all remarkably similar, with only small variations in construction details, and it appears that their moccasins were virtually unchanged from the 1700s through the 1800s. This Missouri River product provides patterns and information so you may make everyday and dress moccasins suitable for any of these tribes during this period.

Notions & Tools

You will need the following: Simulated (or genuine) sinew or strong linen cord for sewing. Optional decorations: ribbon, beads, or porcupine quills for decoration. Ribbon: Moccasins reserved for dress occasions often were decorated with ribbon binding in addition to quill or beadwork. We recommend a minimum of 4 yards of 1" ribbons for this option. Tools: Sharp scissors or knife, awl, & Glover's needles.

Material Requirements

Buckskin: There are 6 different cuff options for your moccasins, and the cuffs and body of the shoe are all one piece. Since the cuff sizes vary in addition to the range of shoe sizes, it is difficult to recommend just how much buckskin you will need until the cuffs are chosen. However, a 6-8 square foot buckskin is sufficient for men's sizes 4 through 12 and women's 5 through 10.

Suggested Materials

During the 1700s-1800s, Indian moccasins of this type were made primarily from brain-tanned deer hides. Even today, brain-tanned buckskin is the preferred choice, followed by German-tanned commercial buckskin. The hides should be of medium weight, as thick hides do not lend themselves to the gathered centre seam technique.

Since the Cheyenne moccasin makers have been the acknowledged masters of the art for years, we have chosen to present the typical Cheyenne style of cut and construction in this pattern. Other tribal variations are shown in examples on this cover sheet as well as the instruction's themselves and are easily adapted using this basic hard sole moccasin design.

The two most challenging aspects of moccasin making are achieving a proper fit and an authentic style. The highly detailed instruction's, illustrations and other information contained in this pattern represent many years of research and “hands-on” learning of how to make moccasins the Indian way. We would like to extend our deepest appreciation to Nellie Stevens, Barry Hardin and Carl Jennings for their generous assistance in the development of this pattern.

Notions & Tools

Simulated or genuine sinew, beads or porcupine quills, if desired for decoration. A sharp awl is also necessary for moccasin making, along with a glovers needle for easy stitiching through leather.

Suggested Materials

Ideally, Indian-tanned buckskin or elk is used for the uppers, welt (a narrow lace that is sewn between the upper and sole), and laces, but any soft, commercially tanned leather (including elk, buckskin, split cowhide, etc. in a 4-5 oz.. weight) is very good.

Soles can be made of hand-prepared rawhide (especially for moccasin soles) or 8-10 oz. white latigo or strap leather. Genuine sinew (a thread-like muscle from the leg or back of an animal) is best for sewing on the soles, but simulated sinew is an excellent substitute and is somewhat easier to work with.